Retinoic acid, often referred to as tretinoin in its pharmaceutical form, is the active form of Vitamin A. It is widely recognized for its powerful effects in dermatology and skin care, particularly in treating acne and signs of skin aging.

Retinoic acid works at the cellular level to modify gene expression and affect cell growth. In treating acne, it promotes the turnover of skin cells, reducing the likelihood of pore-clogging and helping to clear existing breakouts. Additionally, it decreases the cohesiveness of follicular epithelial cells, further preventing the formation of comedones.

Retinoic acid's ability to stimulate collagen production is a key benefit in anti-aging skincare. This leads to a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles and an improvement in overall skin texture and tone. It also aids skin discoloration and hyperpigmentation by accelerating cell turnover, bringing new skin cells to the surface faster, and shedding pigmented and damaged cells.

Despite its benefits, retinoic acid can irritate the skin, causing side effects like redness, dryness, and peeling, especially during the initial period of use. Its potency means it is generally available by prescription and requires careful monitoring by a healthcare professional.

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a newer, esterified form of retinoic acid. Unlike cosmetic retinol, HPR binds directly to the retinoid receptors of the skin cells without needing conversion. This direct binding allows it to deliver similar benefits to retinoic acid, such as stimulating collagen production, improving skin elasticity, and reducing signs of aging, but with a lower risk of irritation.

HPR is considered more gentle and less irritating than traditional retinoic acid while offering comparable benefits. With HPR, everyone has access to the benefits of prescription retinoids without the risk of side effects.

Peptides are short chains of amino acids with a wide range of biological functions and skin benefits. They are essentially small fragments of proteins, which are fundamental components of all living cells, including collagen and elastin in the skin.

In skincare, peptides are known for enhancing skin repair and rejuvenation. They function as signaling molecules, instructing cells to perform specific tasks such as producing collagen and elastin, vital for maintaining the skin's firmness and elasticity. This makes peptides especially beneficial in anti-aging products, as they can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Research has shown that certain peptides can improve skin barrier function, increase hydration, and soothe skin inflammation. This makes them suitable for products targeting dry, sensitive, or inflamed skin.

Peptides, with their diverse functions in promoting collagen production, strengthening the skin barrier, wound healing, and anti-inflammatory actions, are pivotal in managing various dermatological conditions, particularly in anti-aging, sensitive skin care, and wound healing applications.

Matrixyl 3000: The Powerhouse of Anti-Aging Peptides

Matrixyl 3000, a trademarked peptide composition, has revolutionized the approach towards anti-aging in dermatological products. This innovative ingredient combines two peptides, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7. The synergy of these peptides enhances skin repair and reduces the appearance of aging.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8: The Innovative Peptide in Anti-Aging Dermatology

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 is a testament to the advancements in peptide technology in dermatology. Its ability to reduce facial muscle contractions non-invasively positions it as an essential ingredient in anti-aging skincare.

Biochemical Mechanism

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 functions by inhibiting the neurotransmitters that trigger muscle contractions. This action reduces the intensity of wrinkle-causing facial expressions, leading to a visible decrease in fine lines and wrinkles. It mimics the N-terminal end of SNAP-25, competing with this natural protein for a position in the SNARE complex, thereby destabilizing it. As a result, neurotransmitter release is diminished, and facial muscle contractions are softened.

Niacinamide offers several benefits for the skin, primarily due to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It reduces the redness and inflammation associated with acne, rosacea, and other inflammatory skin conditions. Additionally, niacinamide's ability to improve the skin's barrier function benefits all skin types, particularly those with eczema or mature skin.

Another significant benefit of niacinamide is its role in reducing hyperpigmentation. Studies have shown that it can decrease the transfer of melanin to the epidermis, helping to fade dark spots and even out skin tone.

Niacinamide also plays a role in reducing the visible signs of aging. It has been found to stimulate collagen production and improve skin elasticity, reducing fine lines and wrinkles. Its antioxidant properties further protect the skin from environmental damage, such as pollution and UV radiation, which contribute to premature aging.

The efficacy of niacinamide and its ability to address multiple skin concerns simultaneously has led to its growing popularity in both over-the-counter and prescription skincare formulations.

Neo Heliopan® 357, commonly known as Avobenzone offers significant benefits from biochemical, pharmacological, and physiological perspectives:

Biochemical Benefits

• UVA Absorption: It functions by absorbing UVA radiation, particularly in the 320-400 nm range, which includes both UVA1 and UVA2 rays. Biochemically, it absorbs high-energy UVA photons and releases the energy as lower-energy photons, thereby preventing the UV radiation from penetrating deeper into the skin and causing cellular damage.
• Prevention of Photoaging: By absorbing UVA rays, it helps prevent the biochemical processes that lead to photoaging, such as degradation of collagen and elastin, which are vital for maintaining skin structure and elasticity.

Pharmacological Advantages

• Protection Against Long-Term Skin Damage: Help to protect the skin from long-term damage such as photoaging, hyperpigmentation, and the development of certain types of skin cancer associated with UVA exposure.
• Synergistic Effect: Often used in combination with other UVB and UVA filters, it contributes to a broad-spectrum protection profile, enhancing the overall efficacy of sunscreen.

Physiological Impact

• Skin Aging Prevention: Protects the skin from UVA radiation and minimizing the signs of aging caused by UVA-induced damage.
• Enhanced Skin Health: By filtering out harmful UVA rays, it aids in maintaining overall skin health, preventing the breakdown of DNA in skin cells, and reducing oxidative stress.

Uvinul® T 150 and Uvinul® MC 80 offer superior UVB protection, high photostability and very good skin compatibility.

Uvinul® T 150

• High UVB Absorption: Uvinul® T 150 is known for its exceptionally high UVB absorption. It is one of the most efficient UVB filters on a per weight basis, meaning less of it is required to achieve the same level of protection as other filters.
• Photostability: This compound is highly photostable, meaning it doesn't degrade easily when exposed to sunlight. This property is crucial for maintaining consistent UV protection over time.
• Water Resistance: Uvinul® T 150 improve the water resistance of our sunscreen, beneficial for when you have swimming or outdoor activities.
• Low Irritation Potential: It is generally well-tolerated by the skin, with a lower risk of irritation or sensitization compared to other UVB filters.

Uvinul® MC 80

• Efficacy: With an extensive and impressive safety and efficacy history, Uvinul® MC 80 is highly effective in protecting the skin from UVB rays, which are primarily responsible for sunburn and can contribute to skin cancer.
• Elegance: Uvinul® MC 80 have a fantastic texture, leaving no white cast.

Using sunscreen is a fundamental aspect of skin care and preventive dermatology. It's essential for reducing the risk of skin cancers and photoaging and maintaining overall skin health in the face of constant exposure to UV radiation.

Sunscreen is a vital skincare product designed to protect the skin from the harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun. Two primary types of UV radiation affect the skin: UVA and UVB. UVA rays penetrate deep into the skin and are primarily responsible for aging and long-term skin damage, whereas UVB rays cause sunburn and play a key role in developing skin cancer.

Sunscreen products work by either absorbing, reflecting, or scattering sunlight. They contain chemical compounds that absorb UV radiation and convert it into a small amount of heat or physical compounds (like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) that act as a physical barrier, reflecting UV light away from the skin.

The effectiveness of sunscreen is measured by its Sun Protection Factor (SPF). SPF indicates how well the sunscreen protects against UVB rays. For example, an SPF of 30 means it would take 30 times longer for your skin to burn than without sunscreen. However, it's important to note that no sunscreen can block 100% UV rays.

Regular use of sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 can reduce the risk of skin cancer, prevent sunburn, and slow down the skin's aging process.

Infraguard™ is a novel and powerful antioxidant powerhouse, designed to protect the skin from the potentially harmful effects of electromagnetic radiation, specifically from 5G networks, blue light, and other environmental stressors. It functions by shielding the skin against oxidative stress and inflammation, contributing to the prevention of premature aging and maintaining overall skin health.

Physiological Effects of Infraguard

1. Protection Against Blue Light and Infrared (IR) Radiation: Infraguard is formulated to shield the skin from the harmful effects of blue light and IR radiation, which can lead to premature skin aging and damage.
2. Antioxidant Properties: It has strong antioxidant capabilities, helping to neutralize free radicals induced by environmental stressors such as pollution, IR, and blue light.
3. Anti-Aging Benefits: By protecting against IR radiation and mitigating oxidative stress, Infraguard helps to prevent signs of aging like wrinkles and loss of skin elasticity.
4. Skin Barrier Protection: Infraguard aids in reinforcing the skin's natural barrier, enhancing its resilience against environmental factors.
5. DNA Protection: Infraguard™ aids in shielding the DNA in skin cells from damage caused by environmental aggressors. This is crucial in maintaining the integrity of skin cells and preventing mutations that can lead to skin aging and other skin-related issues.

Role and Benefits in Dermatology

1. Preventing Photoaging: Infraguard's ability to protect against IR and blue light makes it beneficial in preventing photoaging, a key concern in modern dermatology. Infrared light can penetrate deeper into the skin compared to UV rays, potentially leading to increased collagen degradation and skin laxity. Infraguard® helps in mitigating these effects.
2. Combatting Environmental Stressors: Its antioxidant properties make it effective in protecting the skin from various environmental pollutants and stressors.
3. Supporting Skin Health: By improving the skin's barrier function and providing antioxidant support, Infraguard contributes to overall skin health.
4. Suitability for Diverse Skin Conditions: Given its protective and anti-aging properties, Infraguard is suitable for use in a wide range of dermatological conditions, especially those related to environmental damage and aging.

References

• Kappler, Katharina et al. "Development of an in Vitro Assay to Evaluate the Biological Impact of 5G Technology on Human Skin. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 2022, vol. 12, pp. 100-108. DOI: 10.4236/jcdsa.2022.122009​​.
• Extensive references cited within the research article including studies on 5G technology, health effects, and skin biology​​.

Infraguard® is a multifunctional ingredient that extends beyond traditional sun protection. It addresses the broader spectrum of light-induced skin damage and oxidative stress, provides DNA protection, and offers anti-aging benefits. Its inclusion in the DermExcel sunscreens represents an advanced step in comprehensive skin care, targeting not just UV rays but also the often-overlooked infrared and blue light, thereby ensuring a more holistic approach to maintaining skin health and appearance.

CoQ10 is a potent ingredient that offers comprehensive benefits for skin health and appearance. Its role in energy production, combined with its antioxidant and anti-aging properties, makes it an invaluable for photoprotection, anti-aging, and overall skin vitality. Its incorporation into DermExcel sunscreen represents a holistic approach to skin health, addressing both protective and restorative needs.

Biochemical Benefits

• Cellular Energy Production: CoQ10 plays a crucial role in the mitochondrial electron transport chain, which is essential for the production of ATP, the primary energy currency of the cell. This function is vital for maintaining the health and vitality of skin cells.
• Antioxidant Properties: It acts as a lipophilic antioxidant, neutralizing free radicals and preventing oxidative damage to cell membranes, proteins, and DNA. This is particularly important in the skin, which is frequently exposed to oxidative stress from environmental factors like UV radiation.

Pharmacological Advantages

• Anti-Aging Effects: CoQ10's antioxidant properties contribute to its anti-aging effects. By reducing oxidative stress, it helps to minimize the visible signs of aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines.
• Photoprotection: It enhances the skin's defense against photoaging caused by exposure to UV rays. CoQ10 helps to mitigate the degradation of collagen and elastin, proteins essential for maintaining skin elasticity and firmness.

Physiological Impact

• Skin Barrier Enhancement: CoQ10 contributes to the strength and health of the skin barrier, improving its ability to retain moisture and protect against external irritants and pollutants.
• Skin Repair and Regeneration: It supports the skin's natural ability to repair itself and regenerate, maintaining a healthy, youthful appearance. This is particularly beneficial in mature skin, where natural levels of CoQ10 may be depleted.