Cellular turnover describes the process of shedding dead skin cells and replacing them with fresh, new, younger, healthier cells. Cells start out plump and full of moisture in the bottom layer of the epidermis. As skin cells mature, they rise through the compact layers of the epidermis, becoming flatter and drier until they reach the surface of the skin. By this point, the cells are nothing more than dry flakes of keratin protein waiting to be shed.
How quickly or slowly this process occurs depends on several factors, including age, environment, UV exposure, hormones, the foods we eat, and whether or not you smoke (don’t!).
Age is the most significant factor. Babies are cell turnover factories completing a cell turnover cycle in under two weeks, hence their amazingly soft, smooth, endlessly smoochable skin. By the teen years, the process takes three to four weeks. Then things start to slow. By your forties, it’s taking about 45 days to complete the skin cell cycle. By your fifties, it can be as long as 60 days.
The longer the cell turnover cycle takes, the more dead cells are left to build up on the skin's surface. This proliferation of cellular debris makes skin look heavy, dry, and dull. The dead cells clog and stretch pores, making them appear larger and more pronounced. They trap oil and bacteria in the pore, which can lead to breakouts. That’s why it’s common to see acne well past your teen years. Lines and wrinkles appear deeper as the dead skin cells build up around them. Patches of excess pigment (age spots or hyperpigmentation) appear darker.
By increasing cell turnover, you remove dead skin that has accumulated on the surface, reduce the appearance of pores, clear impactions and reduce breakouts, diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and reduce excess pigment. Increasing cell turnover leads to a smoother texture and a more even tone, the prerequisite to radiance and essential to maintaining healthy, vibrant skin.
Exfoliation is the key to boosting cell turnover. Exfoliation with medical-grade acids removes dead skin cells and encourages the generation of new cells. Combining these chemical exfoliators with physical wiping of the skin with a clean, wet face cloth works best. This will physically loosen and lift dead skin cells.
Cell turnover slows with age because cells simply aren’t regenerating as quickly as they did when we were young. That means fewer new cells push toward the surface. This is where retinol comes in. Retinol speeds up cell turnover and also acts as a cell regulator, signaling the production of collagen and elastin.
Not all retinol serums are the same, however. DermExcel Retinol serum's patented Retinoic acid ester is the most effective non-prescription retinoid. Because of its unique structure, it’s more readily absorbed by the skin, so it can reach the lower levels of skin and directly bind to the RA receptors to effect change. DermExcel Retinol serum also contains ceramide-boosting niacinamide, among other highly beneficial medical-grade active ingredients.