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Active Ingredients
The Role Of Retinoids
The general consensus amongst dermatologists is to start using retinol products for anti-aging reasons in your 20s. From evening out skin tone and texture to boosting radiance and preventing blemishes, it is a real multitasker that can suit all skin types.
Everyone’s complexion ages differently — some may need it earlier, others later — if you are dealing with breakouts, pigmentation from UV rays or age spots, fine lines from collagen breakdown or dullness, you will benefit a great deal from adding retinol to your regimen.
How do retinoids work?
Inside our skin, we have retinol receptors called retinoic acid receptors (RAR) and retinoid X receptors (RXR). When you apply prescription retinol, known as retin-A or retinoic acid, the retinol acts on those receptors to speed up skin cell production. Old cells die faster, making way for new, young, healthy cells. Retinol also encourages collagen production so, essentially, it triggers your skin to act younger.
Over-the-counter retinol has to go through a conversion process once inside the skin before it can act on the receptors, which means it is less likely to irritate than stronger prescription retinol.
A. Retinoid Acid
Retinoic Acid (also known as retin-A or tretinoin) is seriously potent and only available with a prescription.
Conversion: No conversion needed. Already in the active form. It binds directly to the retinoid receptors to activate a biological response.
Efficacy: Highly effective as it binds directly to the retinoid receptors and activates a biological response. It acts immediately on receptors for fast and furious results.
Side Effects: Depending on the percentage it can cause severe and very uncomfortable side effects, including redness and peeling - even if you don't have sensitive skin.
B. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Also known as granactive retinoid. It's an ester of the prescription retinoic acid and the hottest new retinol on the block. This molecule is unique in that it processes innate retinoic acid activity, and thus does not need to undergo metabolic breakdown to achieve skin benefits. It has been demonstrated to be more stable and cause less skin irritation than Retinoic acid, or any other less effective form of Vitamin A.
Conversion: It works directly on receptors in the skin just like retinoid acid, but has little-to-no downtime making it an ideal choice for anyone who does not want to risk irritation and wants quick results.
Efficacy: Highly effective as it binds directly to the retinoid receptors and activates a biological response. It acts immediately on receptors for fast and furious results.
Side Effects: No side effects, as it does not bind to the specific receptor that causes the side effects.
C. Retinol
An OTC vitamin A derivate that we have all heard of.
Conversion: Once applied, it sinks into the skin where it is converted to retinaldehyde and then to retinoic acid.
Efficacy: Potency and efficacy depend on product formulation, pH, and Retinol concentration.
Side Effects: Depending on the percentage it can cause some redness and peeling if your skin is slightly sensitive. The best way to avoid side effects is to use it two nights a week, see how your skin reacts and once it becomes more accustomed to the retinol ingredient, gradually work your way up to three nights and then four.
D. Retinyl Palmitate
An OTC vitamin A derivative proven in clinical studies to be the least effective form of Retinol.
Conversion: Retinyl palmitate does not penetrate the skin very well. Once applied, it needs to undergo significant complex conversions before it can bind to RA receptors to yield a biological response.
Efficacy: There is no significant evidence in the literature to support the effectiveness of topical retinyl-palmitate as an antiaging agent.
Side Effects: Because of the low efficacy profile there is little to no risk for side effects.
What type of Vitamin A does DermExcel Retinol serum have:
DermExcel Retinol serum contains 3% GranActive Retinoid - Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR).
Why is DermExcel Retinol serum superior?
The type of Vitamin A
The normal retinol molecule needs to be converted to the active form (all-trans retinoic acid) before it can bind to the retinoid receptors to activate a biological response - all dermatological benefits.
Because of this conversion, studies indicate that 1% Retinol is about 20 times weaker than the active form of Retinoic acid. 1% Retinol, equivalent to about 0.05% Retinoic acid.
The HPR retinoid molecule needs no conversion to bind to Retinoid receptors as it’s already in the active form. It binds directly to the retinoid receptor without causing irritation.
The normal retinol molecule and the newly advanced HPR retinoid molecule (included in Granactive Retinol) are 2 totally different molecules and therefore conversion calculation would be almost impossible. It is however save to say that 3% of the Granactive retinoid molecule yields significantly more retinoid receptor binding activity than 1% retinol (the highest percentage retinol in non-prescription products).
Because of this conversion, studies indicate that 1% Retinol is about 20 times weaker than the active form of Retinoic acid. 1% Retinol, equivalent to about 0.05% Retinoic acid.
The HPR retinoid molecule needs no conversion to bind to Retinoid receptors as it’s already in the active form. It binds directly to the retinoid receptor without causing irritation.
The normal retinol molecule and the newly advanced HPR retinoid molecule (included in Granactive Retinol) are 2 totally different molecules and therefore conversion calculation would be almost impossible. It is however save to say that 3% of the Granactive retinoid molecule yields significantly more retinoid receptor binding activity than 1% retinol (the highest percentage retinol in non-prescription products).
Other active ingredients in the DermExcel Retinol formulation
This formulation also contains superior active ingredients, complementing the advanced HPR molecule.
Argireline - This hexapeptide relaxes the muscles responsible for the formation of expression lines. The release of neurotransmitters is impaired resulting in weakened facial contractions, thus inhibiting the formation of wrinkles.
Matrixyl 3000 - Composed of two peptides that work synergistically to restore and maintain the skin’s youthful appearance by signaling to cells to produce more collagen. Numerous studies have proven the anti-aging and anti-wrinkle efficacy of Matrixyl 3000.
Niacinamide - Also known as vitamin B3 and nicotinamide, niacinamide works with the natural substances in your skin to help visibly minimize enlarged pores, tighten lax pores, improve uneven skin tone, soften fine lines and wrinkles, diminish dullness, and strengthen a weakened surface. Niacinamide also reduces the impact of environmental damage because of its ability to improve skin’s barrier (its first line of defense), plus it also plays a role in helping skin to repair signs of past damage. Left unchecked, this type of daily assault makes skin appear older, dull, and less radiant.
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