Ingredient Focus: Niacinamide

Niacinamide does it all: reduces fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots and red blotchiness, and increases elasticity. Bissett et. al. According to a 2005 study by Draelos et. al., niacinamide also alleviates symptoms of rosacea by increasing hydration and barrier function of the stratum corneum (uppermost layer of the skin) and may have some anti-tumor characteristics as well. In a 1995 study by Takozaki et. al., it was reported that a 4% topical niacinamide treatment applied twice daily may help to treat acne by reducing inflammation with similar efficacy to 1% clindamycin gel. 

HYDRATION

Topical application of niacinamide has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in the skin, prevent skin from losing water content, as well as stimulate micro-circulation in the dermis (British Journal of Dermatology, September 2000, pages 524-531; and Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, April 2004, page 88).

2% Niacinamide was shown in a published study to be more effective than petrolatum (Vaseline) for reducing water loss from skin and increasing its hydration levels (International Journal of Dermatology, March 2005, pages 197-202).

In addition to this, niacinamide is also non-comedogenic, and it does not have the greasy texture of petrolatum.

ROSACEA

According to a 2005 study by Draelos et.al., niacinamide help alleviate some of the symptoms of rosacea by increasing hydration and barrier function of the stratum corneum (uppermost layer of the skin).

HYPERPIGMENTATION

According to Bissett et. al., niacinamide reduces hyperpigmented (age) spots, red blotchiness, and increases elasticity.

According to a 2002 study by Hakozaki et. al., a topically applied 2% niacinamide and sunscreen lotion significantly decreased hyperpigmentation and increased skin lightness after 4 weeks of use more significantly than a control lotion.

Niacinamide reduces hyperpigmentation by inhibiting 35–68% of melanosome (pigment) transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes (skin cells). These results were affirmed by a study, using a niacinamide concentration of 4%. As such, in concentrations of at least 2% and up to 5%, niacinamide provides a unique and effective method in decreasing hyperpigmentation.

ANTI-AGING

 A study by Bissett et. al. demonstrated that 2% niacinamide stimulates collagen production by enhancing the replicative potential of the skin's fibroblasts cells.

ACNE TREATMENT

In comparison to 1% clindamycin gel, Shalita et. al. has shown that niacinamide yields similar results. In addition, the use of niacinamide may be preferable over clindamycin and other antibacterial agents in the long term because the bacteria tend to re-emerge after a period of antibacterial agent use (Shalita et. al.).

THE BOTTOM LINE

Niacinamide is an effective and safe medical-grade ingredient for treating age spots, hyperpigmentation, aging skin, mild acne, and skin dryness. 

DermExcel™ Products containing 4% Niacinamide: